Unlike with a regular lounge suit, you will not be able to prevent others from seeing your lining due to the open nature of the cutaway silhouette. This explains why the majority of vintage morning coats has a matching tone-in-tone silk lining that does not necessarily catch the observer’s eye. Bespoke customers sometimes want to make a statement and hence they choose a flashy lining in green, red or purple. Personally, I think it does not look very sophisticated and I advocate against it; the lining will be revealed by the knees, which is not the ideal place to direct an observer’s eyes. More often than not, this kind of garment is offered by second tier Made-to-Measure companies who want to attract the uneducated customer.
Sleeve linings have been traditionally striped or white, however, hardly anyone but you will ever see it and as such it is completely up to your taste.
Knize Morning Coat with Tone in Tone Lining
Shadow Self Striped Silk Morning Coat Lining
Purple Lining of Steven Hitchcock Morning Coat
Moring Coat with Purple Lining & Lapel Buttonhole
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Morning Coat Lining, 5.0 out of 5 based on 2 ratings
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Dear Sir/Madam,
Concerning suite linings, There was a time when cotton-backed satin was the standard for all linings as the cotton which was woven into the back of the satin gave it extra strength. I may be mistaken but the last factory I knew of to produce it in this country was in Bradford W.Yorks and closed about 10yrs ago. I have never been able to find anything similar produced today that will match it in quality or feel. A similar thing with sleeve lining which was then made of striped silk. The arms just slid into the sleeves and the whole garment fitted like a glove. When asked why things are not made like they used to be, it’s because you cant get the same quality of materials.
Yours Sincerely
Cameron
Dear Cameron,
Thank you for your input. I have not heard of Bradford W. Yorks before but I will keep my eyes open in case I ever come across some cotton backed satin lining.